Imperia, Liguria
Triora
In 1587, thirteen women who knew which plants cured fevers were tried as witches in this village. The transcripts still exist, and so does the village.
Why it is worth the drive
Between 1587 and 1589 an inquisitor sent from Genoa tried thirteen women of this village for witchcraft. They were healers and herbalists, and the famine was blamed on them. The transcripts of their interrogations are still held in the State Archive in Genoa.
One bakery is left. It makes low, round loaves of about 850 grams, scored with a square on the crust, risen overnight, good for a week. Triora was the granary of the Genoese Republic and there was only ever one communal oven.
Getting there
Nice (NCE) is the nearest international airport, about two hours by car; Genoa about two and a half. The last thirty-five kilometres are a narrow provincial road up the Argentina valley.
Sources: tuttitalia.it/liguria/42-triora/ ; cultura.gov.it/luogo/museo-etnografico-e-della-stregoneria
Last checked 2026-09-12. Opening hours and festival dates change: confirm with the town before you travel.
Eleven more towns like this one
Each town is a day. The order of the drives, the nights and the meals is the part that ruins most first trips to small Italy. Twelve of them in one guide, free, and a letter a week after that.
No spam, one letter a week, unsubscribe in one click.